Braving the waves in Puerto Escondido

Alexander Hanrath, Oaxaca Times - 11/2/2001

Discover the hidden attractions of Oaxaca's laid-back resort You're wading waist deep in the ocean. A wave is approaching. But what's that? A second wave is coming at you- this one from shore. With a great splash and spray, the two opposing waves break over you simultaneously. Welcome to Zicatela.

Off this three kilometer stretch of beach, massive waves, towering up to two stories high, thunder and crash. A chaos of criss-cross currents rolls and breaks in every direction possible. Some run parallel, others diagonal or even away from shore, on the rebound. Playa Zicatela is one of the best surfing sites in the world, and the poster child of Puerto Escondido, a beach resort on the Oaxaca coast. Puerto Escondido`s name means "hidden port" and it evokes romantic images of a small fisher's village lying hidden in a secluded bay.

While that may have been true of the small coffee port of 50 years ago, present-day "Puerto" is hard to miss with its 35,000 inhabitants. But that may be a good thing. It has all the amenities of a sizeable resort town, without the high rises or the hordes of foreign tourists of Huatulco or Cancun.

The only thing hidden in Puerto Escondido is the variety of scenery and activities that waits to be discovered in the shadow of famous Zicatela. Puerto Escondido has a flavor for everyone's tastes. Beaches range from dramatic Zicatela to peaceful Bahía Principal (main bay). Boogie boarding, scuba diving, kayaking and bird watching are just a few of the ways to get your adrenaline flowing.

The only stressful thing about a visit to Puerto could be deciding what to do. Laid back as it is, facilities are generally good here. But neither should one come here looking for polished venues and Club Med service. This is an authentic Mexican beach town, and the pace is as slow as one would expect, or even hope for, from such a resort.

The real Puerto, where locals work and live, sits perched on a hill overlooking the bay. The slope drops sharply to the Adoquin, a pedestrian walkway in front of the Bahía Principal. Lined with shops, internet cafés, restaurants and bars, the Adoquin is the center of tourist Puerto. If Zicatela enjoys the fame and the glory, the main town and its Bahía Principal offer convenience and safety. The beach is sheltered from the ocean waves, which makes it a favorite place for Mexican families to lay down their towels on Sundays. It is so safe it is even lit at night to deter crime. It is also a good central spot in which to base oneself for exploring the area.

A 15-minute walk to the east awaits killer beach Zicatela. Here lies surfer heaven. Its single road is lined with thatched roof restaurants and bars on the beach side and hotels on the other. There is a variety of accommodation for all budgets - a camping ground, a number of budget bungalows, as well as reasonably priced quality hotels.

Watching the surfers brave the waves is a favorite pastime on Zicatela. But the waves alone can provide plenty of entertainment. Marvel at the size and strength of these liquid monsters. Closer to shore, opposing waves cross paths. Their crashing crests throw up great sprays that race along shore, in the same way that a flame can consume a trail of gasoline. A great place to gaze in awe at this aquatic fireworks show is the upstairs bar at Hotel Arco Iris. There is also a gorgeous sunset on most days.

Swimming here is only for the brave and the foolish. Still, close to shore there are hours of playful fun to be had. Let a current drag you lateral to the shore, and you can watch the lounge chairs speed by. On the west side of Puerto Escondido lies a different resort altogether. Puerto Angelito is a charming cove surrounded by tropical vegetation. Lying under your thatched parasol, you could be forgiven for thinking you are far from urban life. In reality the Adoquin is just 15 minutes away. Several bars and restaurants line the beach. Out in the bay, you can watch fishermen's boats, snorkellers and pelicans compete for fish. But don't get too comfortable. There are also various natural and cultural excursions. Two lagoons, Chacahua and Manialtepec, offer birdwatching and kayaking. Ride through a canyon to the Atotonilco hot springs or visit coffee plantations. Local tour agencies offer day trips to these destinations, as well as "eco-tours" to Puerto Angel and Huatulco, combining visits to beaches, crocodile and iguana farms as well as the turtle museum in Mazunte. November Events

November has a number of exciting events planned. The Coastal Dance Festival is scheduled for the 17th and 18th, coinciding with the International Sailfish Tournament. A week later, see top surfers in action at the International Surf Tournament, from the 23rd to the 25th. Tips and Practicalities:

For more detailed information, email Gina, helpful member of the local tourist information office, at ginainpuerto@yahoo.com, or find her in her kiosk at the beginning of the Adoquin. How to get there

Frequent bus services take around 7 hours from Oaxaca. Several airlines fly daily from Oaxaca and Mexico City. Where to Stay

Among the 90 hotels there is sure to be one that satisfies your taste and budget. Playa Zicatela features bungalow style hotels, as well as the charming Arco Iris (with kitchenettes). In the main town there is a host of good value hotels such as the Loren. Where to eat

On the Adoquin, Junto Al Mar and Perla Flamante are both recommended by locals. On Zicatela, Cipriano's serves good pizza, and El Cafecito is known for its breakfasts. Popular bars along the Adoquin include Los Tres Diablos, Wipe Out and Barfly.