Surf-Mexico Guide to Surfing and Adventure Travel in Mexico

Chiapas
Chiapas Directory
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Archeological Sites
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Comitan de Dominguez
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Chiapas Archeological Sites

The Central Valley highlands and steaming jungles of Chiapas hold some of Mexico's most fascinating archaeological records of the Mayan civilization, strongholds and ceremonial centers, among which are the larger sites of Palenque, Bonampak, Chinkultic, Yaxchilan and Tonina. Others not described here include the ruins of Tenam Puente near the Montebello Lakes, Izapa just north of Tapachula, the ruins near Chiapa del Corzo, and the remote Tzendales, Landeros and Pico de Oro Archaeological zones in the Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve

Bonampak and Yaxchilán

Bonampak and Yaxchilán are located in a remote corner of Chiapas near the Guatemalan border surrounded by thick jungle and howler monkeys. Access is gained either by a combination of bus or car, via the unpaved (and often terribly rutted) border road, motor launch and on foot, or by booking a flight in small plane which will take you on a quick tour to both sites. There are only camping facilities for overnighting at these ruins and you should take along sunscreen, insect repellent and your own camping gear, water and food. Yaxchilan is open from 7 am to 6 pm daily; Bonampak´s hours are 8 am to 4 pm daily.

Yaxchilan lies on the banks of the Usamacinta River. British explorers began to inspect, explore and map the site in the late 1800´s, and it wasn´t until 1931 that the Mexican goverment appointed guardians to protect the structures, monuments and archaeological finds. In 1972, Roberto Garcia Moll of the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), began Proyecto Yaxchilan and the first archaeological digs on the site, restoring more than half of the 120 structures and uncovering numerous tombs and artifacts.

Bonampak is located in the Lacandon jungles to the south of Yaxchilan and close to the Lacanja River. In 1943 Danish archaeologist Frans Blom attempted an exploration of the ruins but succumbed to malaria and was forced to turn back. It wasn´t until 1946 that John Bourne, at the behest of filmmaker Giles Healey, and Karl Frey penetrated the jungle with the help Lacandon guides and made their way into Bonampak, setting off a controversy between the two men and the United Fruit Company, who had originally hired Healey to do a documentary, about who was the real discoverer of the ruins. Subsequently expeditions, many them disastrous and taking the lives of several explores, were sent in by the INAH and the National Institute of Fine Arts until the early 60´s when an INAH team finally began cleanup at the site and the construction of an airstrip. It wasn´t until 1977 that Bonampak was brought into the Yaxchilan-Bonampak project under the direction of INAH´s Roberto Garcia Moll, and serious excavation, restoration and conservation work finally got underway.

Chincultik

Chincultic, Chiapas
Photos: Zihrena Systems - All Rights Reserved

The Chinkultic Archaeological zone is located amid pine forests near Comitán de Dominguez and Lagunas de Montebello, at 1,500 meters (about 4,920 feet) above sea level, in a long, lush valley. The imposing site is a conglomeration of tiered temples, platforms and ball courts on the lower reaches of the site, and stepped and tiered temples on the Acropolis high above, which affords stunning views of the surrounding valley, a lake and a large cenote (sink-hole) below

Many of the mounds have not yet been excavated. Of note is the Great Ballcourt of Chincultik, unique in that it is asymmetrical, the northern end of it being quite a bit larger than its southern end, rather than basically symmetrical.

Access to the site is gained via a road out of Comitán leading to La Trinitaria, taking a left just before reaching the town. On the side road to the Montebello Lakes is a sign indicating the archaeological site 3 kms to the left.

  • Hotel Parador Santa María - Carr. La Trinitaria-Lagos de Montebello Km.22, La Trinitaria. Restaurant/bar, museum. Tel: (963) 632-5116. Email for info and reservations

Other accommodations are available in Comitán de Dominguez

Palenque

More photos of Palenque...
Photos: Zihrena Systems - All Rights Reserved

Located 7 kms from the town of Paleque in a region of foothills and dense jungle vegetation overlooking the valley of the Usamacinta River. Access is gained via Highway 199 from San Cristóbal de las Casas and Ocosingo, or Highway 186 from Villahermosa, Tabasco. The area is serviced by airports in Villahermosa, Tabasco, and Tuxtla Gutierrez, Chiapas as well as bus lines from both cities.

The site is open to the public daily from 8 am until 6 pm. Although many of Palenque's structures and areas have yet to be excavated, a thorough tour of the restored and visible areas of the site can take up to two days. Use good walking or hiking shoes and carry insect repellent with you on your explorations. The Palenque Archaeological Zone also offers a very good on-site museum with snack bar and gift shop. Lodging is available near the archaeological sit and in the town of Palenque.

Earliest pottery fragments from Palenque date from circa A.D. 100, and Palenque formed into a small regional center between A.D. 300 and 600. Following this came the beginning of the Late Classic Maya era which marked the height of Mayan civilization, and it is during this time that most of the major structures of the central part of Palenque seem to have been erected, including the Temple of the Inscriptions, the Palace, and the Temples of the Sun and the Cross.

Lodging and Rentals in Palenque

Tenam Puente

Tenam Puente, Chiapas
Photos: Zihrena Systems - All Rights Reserved

Tenam Puente is located fairly close to Comitán de Dominguez and is an imposing site recently restored and opened to the public, with views from its mountain-side perch over the valley which extends all the way to the Montebello Lakes. The site currently covers an area of some two square kilometers and holds a number of large pyramids and retaining walls forming a series of terraced platforms conforming largely to the natural lay of the land, as well as three separate ball courts. Maximum development in this community was reached during the Late Classic era, from 600 to 900 A.D., although it was not totally abandoned until the Early Postclassic period, 900-1200 A.D.

Toniná

Photos: Zihrena Systems - All Rights Reserved

Toniná ruins are located on a hillside overlooking the Ocosingo Valley a few miles east of the town of Ocosingo. The site includes a museum holding some of the best of the sculptures found during excavation of the site. Visiting hours are from 9 am to 6 pm daily. Lodging and accommodations for the area are found in Ocosingo (see Other Cities of Chiapas)

It is believed that Toniná began forming into an organized settlement around 300 A.D, and the the height of its development occurred between 600 and 900 A.D. The site is dominated by a terraced Acropolis with a number of temple platforms surrounded by plazas, ball courts and several lesser structures. Of particular note within the Acropolis is the Frieze of the Dream Lords, a massive 16 x 4 meter wall on which are depicted many other-worldly creatures corresponding to the rulers of Toniná, the Palace of the Flowered Throne and the stone relief at the Temple of the Earth Monster. At the foot of the Acropolis lies a structure riddled with small rooms and passageways called the Palace of the Underworld.

Photos: Zihrena Systems - All Rights Reserved

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